RE: How can I locate my roof supports on my '94 Tioga?
Have your vehicle model number and serial number handy.Go on line
find the manufacturers webb site, look for contact information, any thing with a phone number will work. Most parts departments will list a phone number. It doesn't matter what department as long as you get a live voice, (real person) to talk to and explaine the assistance you are seeking. If that person can't help you they should know who can. Perhaps you can get them to fax or e-mail you a copy of the roof plans or a print off of a blue prints or some measurement points.
It worked for me when rebuilding a 1979 camper. Good luck.
RE: Gas milages
I have a 1984 24' Real Lite RV with 46,000 miles on it with a Ford 460 Engine. I just returned from a trip from Kentucky to Oklahoma and back. The trip was 1,634 miles, used 166.6 gal.of gas, got 9.84 mpg. total cost of gas was $659.28, average cost per gal. $3.89. I set my Speed Control at about 62/63 MPH. When on the road ran my gen. for air and ref. it feeds from the front tank at about a gal. per hour or a little less. I was gone seven days. On the same trip when I drive my car and stay in motels and buy all my meals or fly, rent a car,stay in motels and buy meals, it always cost $400/$500 more. Another benifit of being in the RV. is when tired, pull in to a rest stop, take a nap,get up take a refreshing shower, fix a bit to eat and take off. 800 miles a day makes a loong Day at 60 MPH.
Check your numbers. I think anything over 3 days the Motor Home is cheapest way to go. Not only has gas gone up but meals and Motel and Hotel Rates have as well.
RE: What did you do to your Class C MH today???
The other day I noticed the bath room ceiling leaking down the back wall and around skylite, after opening up found it looked like has been for some time. I guess it took all the rain storms lately to make it show up, boy it did. Yesterday and today the weather was great but rain is comeing so no fishing, it's fixin time. Removed all old caulk from the roof rail mounts and rear roof seam from side to side (alum. roof). Cleaned the surface with MEK, checked all attaching screws and recaulked useing DYCO 20/20 caulk.
Found the skylite top cracked, could not get just the top (too old)
New assembly with fan was $136.00. Assembly with out fan $26.00.
NO Brainer here, just take the button switch and motor off the old and put on the new along with a new $6.00 fan blade. At this point that's a good plan and is doable. BE ADVISED, The motor can be installed in the wrong position, upside down or crooked. The same for the switch. The wire from the motor to the switch if not routed properly can be be pinched/cut by the slideing arm that lifts the top of the skylite. Wonder how I know that ?? (If time and safety is of concern spend the money) Now to install. Removed the cracked Skylite cleaned all old puddy and caulk from roof, cleaned with MEK, drilled new screw holes about 1/2 in. offset. Filled old screw holes with wood puddy. Put down new sealing puddy and installed new Skylite assy. used new 3/4" long alum. screws. Caulked all aroung edges and over screws. Don't think it will leak now.. Next removed old caulk from all through roof vents ect. and recaulked. Put tools away, drove the RV up to the truck wash and cleaned all but the new caulked area roof. That's what I did to my Class C MH today. It was a good day.
RE: Added Bilstein Shocks-WOW
After reading about Bilstein shocks by members of this group, I price checked around some of the places. Then went googleing and found a place called SHOCK WORLD, best prices that have found. $320.00 for 4 Bilstein for my 26 ft MH (Ford-350) and they were at my front door on the second day after ordering.
RE: What did you do to your Class C MH today???
Due to my drive way filled up with my car and two trucks I park my motor home pass the drive way in the back yard on the grass. was going to put in a cement pad but weather has prevented that. Looking at it setting out there on that wet muddy ground was getting to me so went to lowes and got some 16" cement squares, 4 ea. for each set of rear wheels and 2 ea. for each front wheel. Put the squares behind the wheels and backed up on them. Fills the need, only cost about $20.00 and the vehicle is on a hard surface, tires no longer on wet/muddy ground. The cement squares support the motor home very well.
RE: Women C Class Drivers
Wife and three Daughters drive as good as any one, probability better than some. Wife has some experence flying large twin engine aircraft also so her driveing a Motorhome Ha Ha no sweat. Don't try telling these women they can't do anything.
You might ought to check your vehicle Operator's manual and see what it says about male or female driver. You just might, just might I say have one of those Male only vehicle, and you couldn't handle it. or if when he drives and it acts weird, clips things, wonders around the road, gets a little lost sometimes. That could mean that it's a Female Driver's vehicle and he don't know how to handel it, Cause these things only happen when He is driveing it but not when you are. Some are male and female driver vehicles (mine is)It don't matter who drives, things are the same. Anyway read through your Owner/Operator manual about that or check with you local dealer to be real sure, they are helpful in that sort of things.
Hope this helps
Bob
RE: What did you do to your Class C MH today???
Ran engine and gen. for about 20 min. opened all fauces and drained hot water tank, looks like I need to pull the plug and flush it. Will do that tomorrow. Suppost to get in the 20's tonight or tomorrow night? Maybe,Perhaps,possible???
RE: Hope this ? is allowed---MPG in a C?
getting 9-10 MPG at speeds of 55-65. thats after rebuilding the carb and replaceing s/plugs, plugs wires and air filter after detecting a fire the previous owner forgot to tell me about. was getting about-7 before.
1984 24' Real-Lite, E350 Ford, 460 engine, 46000 miles.
RE: '83 460 FORD MODIFICATIONS?
I have the same engine as you do and with the same 46000 miles on it. I have had my 24' 1984 Trail-lite MH for about 4 months and like it.
Like you I though of modifications, as a person who has done some of this kind of stuff before, a lot of things ran through my head and I did research and more research and though some more. And then I though What do I want? What is the goal? and what do I have to work with? (money, time, equip., work place, Understanding Mate). The Want and Goal will change a lot, because you will find they are based on the 5 listed things to work with . (Especially the first and last ones). I want reliability, Easy to maintain, Power to do the job and as good gas mileage as possible. After researching this year and model engine, and for what it is used for, I think it will do the job pretty good as is. When first got mine the engine was running real rich, Started with a big cloud of black smoke, tail pipe nasty sooty. was getting about 7 MPG with gas addtive. So Rebuild the Carb. it was a mess, showed signs of haveing a fire, replaced the air filter, new plugs and plug wires and checked the Timing. Also replaced the muffler. Now Runs nice and smooth plenty of power and gets 9-10 MPG. Which I think is good. My speed range is 55 to 70 MPH . With proper care and takeing care of little thing before they become big things this engine will fit my Wants and Goal for a RV. I was prepared to replace the Carb. if it was not rebuildable with a Edelbrock Carb. as this is a good one and simple and easy to work on if needed. I don't think a aftermarket Manifold is worth the cost for this application, Headers maybe ? but I don't think they would make a difference in power or mileage that you could see. (they are always blowing gasgets and leaking) This big old stock truck engine is good the way it is and will last a long time .
Bob in Kentucky
RE: Shopping for a "mature" Class C
My advice is a PREPURCHASE INSPECTION. If you find a vehicle that you think you would want to buy. CHECK IT OUT, Get the seller to agree to let you have it inspected by a R.V.repair shop of YOUR chooseing. One that has the tools,equip.and knowledgeable personal who will use a RV INSPECTION CHECK LIST and PUT THE INSPECTION IN WRITING AND DATE IT AND GIVE YOU A COPY after going over it with you and showing you on the vehicle any noted defects and the repairs of such and cost. Yes it may cost you a few bucks, (about a hour shop time, $50.00-$100.00) But could be best money you've spent in a while .
My R.V. is a 1984 24' Real-Lite Class C Motor Home on a Ford E-350 chassis, 460 engine with 46,000 miles on it, after carb. rebuild and new sparkplugs and plug wires, getting 9-10 mpg.
